In the past we have occasionally experienced quite some issues with Kendo equipment that unfortunately was ordered in the wrong size. Of course, we are in a very good position to know that measuring one's body is definitely not something easy. It actually requires quite some experience to do it without any doubt. So in order to guide you through this crucial process, here are a few tips about how to make precise measurements. By following them, you will help us making sure to provide you with the most suitable gear:
IMPORTANT NOTE: First of all, please don't try to take these measurements by yourself. It is almost impossible to obtain precise measures while doing it alone. If possible, always ask someone to help you with it while you are standing still in the proper posture.
Please use a flexible tape measure, never a metal one (doing so will lead to inaccurate measurements).
Please do not use a thread and attempt to measure it afterwards. This only increases the chance of mistakes.
Your hand should always be flat while measuring, and your head (jaw) relaxed.
The tape should not be loose, neither digging into your skin. Just apply it firmly.
If you can, please take the same measurements several times in a row to make sure of their accuracy. For the Kote, you can try both hands to have the average measurements.
M1. (A)“Overall”(Around the face):
This is the overall size of your head. It globally determines the size of the Men that would fit your head the best.
Start on your chin, and go up to the furthest point on the opposite side of your head. In other words, it has to be the biggest measure you are able to take around your head starting from your chin.
M2. (B) “Hachimaki”(Around the forehead):
This is the circumference of your head. It is for us to make sure it won’t stick out of the protection offered by the menbuton in the back, so if you fall backward during a fight it can absorb the shock before your head hits the ground from behind and gets hurt badly.
Start from above your eyebrows to the furthest point on the opposite side of your head where the skull may jut out a little (depending on the person).
M3. (C) “Monomi” (Eyes' height):
This is the height of your eyes from your chin. It is useful to be sure that the widest interval in the mengane, called “monomi”, corresponds exactly to the level of your eyes, so you can see properly through it.
The best way is to put your chin flat on a board, like a table top, and measure the distance from it to the corner of your eye.
Measurements for the Kote
K1 (D) “Length”(Full length of hand):
This is the overall size of your hand. It globally determines the size of the Kote that would fit your hand the best.
Start on the wrist, where it meets with the palm of your hand, and go up to the furthest tip of your longest finger (usually your middle finger). It has to be the longest measure from your wrist to the tip of your finger.
K2 (E) “Circumference”(Around knuckles):
This is the circumference of your hand without its thumb at its largest point. It is necessarry to determine how your hand will fit in the Kote.
For this one, you have to measure around the knuckles, bone to bone, with your hand flat. Palm up is usually easier to see.
K3 (F) “Palm”(Around the palm):
This is the largest part of your hand, including the thumb. Usually, this measure is not really necessary, but it can help in some cases.
Just keep your thumb close along your hand so that the muscle at its base is bulging. Then circle around the palm to have the maximum size around it.
All prices are in JPY